New Normals

The other day I fried up some bananas for a snack.  Though I rarely fry bananas, it is a common snack here, usually dipped in palm sugar while eating.  The locals fry a great deal of food; bananas, fish, chicken, tofu, tempe, cassava, and corn or cabbage fritters being the most common.  Though we truly enjoy fried bananas and chowed down, I can’t bring myself to provide my family with frequent fried foods.  Maybe that is why it was an additional treat. 

Whitman dipping the bananas in palm sugar

So many types of bananas.

Frying bananas on the top and little bananas on the bottom. 

We eat the little ones most often as they are cheap and easy to come by. 

Though many things have become ‘normal’ to us here, not all ‘new’ things have.  Just the other night while reading the boys a bedtime story, Caedmon noticed a cockroach on the mobile that hangs in the middle of their room.  Did you know cockroaches fly?  They do! And yes we have cockroaches.  We finished the story then I thought about the best thing to do.  I didn't want to fill the kids room with bug spray right as they were to go to sleep, but the mobile was too high for me to reach.  While as I was thinking, John reach up and swatted the bottom of the mobile causing the cockroach to either fall or fly off.  We saw it fly to the wall, then scurry towards a corner of the floor we could no longer see.  Unfortunately this greatly disturbed the boys.  Thouogh I couldn't blame them, that night Evangeline slept by herself in the bedroom.  Both boys, regardless of how much we reassured them, would not sleep in their bedroom.  They traded their own beds, in an air conditioned room, for a couch on which they both slept, together, in front of a fan.  I thought for sure one at least would get up and move to their bed during the night, but neither did.  The next day I sprayed under everything and in all corners.  I didn't see the cockroach, but after a lot more reassuring, we convinced the boys to return to their own bed that night. 

Uniforms and a 7:30 start to school have become normal. 

They boys wake up by 6am on their own, no problem.

Black and White: a common phrase, often said in English, used by people when they compare their skin with ours. 

I, Erin, have not gotten use to this as we use black in a different way in English and white skin is not as beautiful in our home culture as everyone thinks it is here (too much culture attached to the words for me).

Evangeline with a neighbor's son, who was born 1 month to the day before Evangeline.

A baby girl in the house! 

We have definitely gotten use to being a family of five and have fallen into a good rhythm with naps, picking up small toys, and keeping an eye on her as she now crawls proficiently.

Riding a motorcycle

Though I have become comfortable driving a motorcycle, I still feel slightly stressed every time I go out as traffic moves so differently here than in the States.  John compares it to a sporting event that just finished.  Everyone is trying to move through the same two doors at the same time - ordered chaos. 

Soccer

     Over a year ago, while we were in the States, John and Caedmon both took part in youth soccer through Parks and Rec.  Caedmon enjoyed his first experience playing soccer, while John gained experienced as the coach.  Little did we imagine the experience would come into play halfway around the world. 

Upon our return to Barat in 2016, John put together soccer practice for first and second graders.  Since there isn’t any type of youth sports league here, the kids scrimmaged with each other at the end of each week.  Last fall, under the social work branch of the foundation he is working for, John organized a youth soccer league.  The foundation sponsored four teams, providing jerseys, balls, and cones.  Finding coaches proved more difficult than expected.  The initial prospects expected to be paid.  After some time, John found four men willing to volunteer their time to coach the kids, ranging from 1^st to 6^th grade.  The teams consisted of 16 players, which due to the high level of interest were selected by the coaches during tryouts.  For two months they practiced throughout the week and played games on Sunday mornings.  We ended the ‘season’ with a tournament. 

This past March, John began soccer again, this time with four news teams from different neighborhoods.  The previous teams wanted to participate again as well, unfortunately they were left to find their own sponsors for this season.  Thankfully a man, who is the equivalent of a State Representative, agreed to sponsor the additional teams, so we now have eight teams participating.  Caedmon was selected to play with the team from our neighborhood.  Twice weekly John takes Caedmon to practice then Whitman, Evangeline, and I pick him up.  We then attend Caedmon’s games on Sunday mornings, while John acts as the referee for half of the games.  John has been blessed by a recent college grad acting as his assistant to help with the organizing and refereeing.  Caedmon has really been enjoying participating thus far and it has provided to be a great deal of culture learning for John and I. 

Caedmon's team warming up before a game.

John reefing and Caedmon #6, watching on the sidelines.

Caedmon is one of the youngest and newest to soccer on his team,

so he hasn't gotten to play much as winning  is a high priority.

Thankfully he is still enjoying it!

Our walk to practice, it takes about ten minutes and is not accessible by car.

We walk through a brick making area.

Past multiple homes.

Still walking!

We made it to practice, slightly late, but it rarely starts on time.

A New Favorite Recipe

I, Erin, really enjoy eggplant.  John, Caedmon, and Whitman enjoy it sliced and pan fried, but all other methods of cooking and seasoning I have tried have not been met with any delight.  One day as a friend bought eggplant from the drive-by vegetable seller, I asked her how she prepared it.  She listed the spices she uses and offered to teach me someday when I had all the ingredients.  A few days later I had gathered all the ingredients and asked for her instruction.  What resulted was delicious!  John really enjoys the sauce, but prefers other vegetables, so I have since used the recipes many times with other ingredients, such as pumpkin, cauliflower, and chicken.  It reminds us a lot of a dish from our favorite Thai restaurant in College Place.  Due to a little spiciness Caedmon and Whitman don’t like it, but they enjoy picking lemon grass for me to use from an empty lot a block away.  If you’re curious, give it a try, it is quite easy. 

Ingredients:

2-3 eggplants (about 3 cups when chopped)
3 garlic cloves

4-6 shallots

3 chili peppers (see above picture, I do not know the English name)

2 sprouts/sticks of lemon grass

½ cup coconut milk

¼ cup water (or broth)

¼ teaspoon turmeric

¼ Salt or to taste

Chop the eggplant in ½ cubes, leaving the skin on.  Place the garlic, shallots, and chilies in a blender to puree.  I take out the seeds from the peppers to decrease the heat, but my friend did not.  Using just the last 2-3 inches of the lemon grass, pound it a couple times to help release the flavor.  Pour the puree into a skillet or wok with a little cooking oil.  Add the chopped eggplant, lemon grass, coconut milk, water or broth, turmeric, and salt.  Cook over low heat until the eggplant is tender and the sauce has thickened.  Serve with rice. 

A Trip Out

    Three weeks ago we returned from a conference for overseas workers.  We gathered with people working in three other countries.  Activities and childcare were provided for the kids, while John and I attended sessions on assessing locations for living, language learning, teaching and caring for children overseas, and using our jobs to assist in achieving our ultimate goal (in relationship building for example).  It was a very valuable time for fellowship, being reminded of our ultimate goal, and in gaining practical helps for how to get there.  It was also encouraging to hear from other workers that have been where we are and done this before!

Playing with other kids and making crafts!

The boys loved making new friends and participating in the planned activities for children.

    The conference took place in another country, so we were blessed to enjoy some western food (we ate at Subway at least 3 times) and different sights, such as parks and playgrounds. 

Chinese New Year celebration at a local park.

Eating at Tony Romas!

After the conference we rode a train to a neighboring country for John to undergo a colonoscopy.  Eight years ago he had a precancerous polyp that was removed but frequent colon checks were advised.  Thankfully this colonoscopy returned a clean bill of health!

A snack we found at the train station.

They weren't very good, but what a great name!

We can't figure out why or where that name came from.

Getting on the train. 

It was a 6 hour train ride with one train change. 

Unfortunately we left at 6pm so we saw only a little of the countryside before nightfall. 

You know you live overseas when McDonald's serves fried chicken.

McDonald's for dinner on the train. 

We were fortunate to take a day trip to LEGOLAND.

So many Lego models.

Bad Boys

Evangeline enjoyed some Legos as well!

Whitman in Duplo Land

Caedmon and Erin soaked after a ride

The boys were thrilled to get 'driver's licenses' and drive their own cars.

While John underwent his procedure, the kids and I enjoyed the Botanical Gardens.  We spent four hours playing, walking around, and looking at plants.  We saw only a quarter of the gardens. 

Water Play

A plus to being in a hot climate is even without bringing a change of clothes water play is possible - you'll quickly dry!

Watching the brothers play in the fountains. 

The boys spotted a large iguana.

Caedmon and Whitman

Turtles

Black Bamboo and a sleeping baby

Lounging

Happy Girl Evangeline

She was a champ even though she slept a lot less than normal.

A Baby Event - Two Ways

     Last week we were invited to two events for new babies, both for two month old boys.  Though both events were held by local Barat people, they were very different.  One followed ancestral traditions whereas the other followed more current religious teachings. 

     The first event, the more current religious event, can be loosely compared to a baby dedication in the States.  We attended this event of our close neighbors on Monday, who had a little boy in November.  These events are held anywhere from a couple weeks to even up to a year after the birth.  It began at 10:30 in the morning with the grandparents and a few close friends attending, about 15 people in all.  The guests all sat on a carpet in the house while a portion of their holy book was read.  Then a portion of the baby’s hair was cut and placed in a coconut.  Some families plant the coconut to bring about future success.  We unfortunately were late, missing this portion, therefore we did not see what this particular family did.  After the short ceremony, we all ate a meal where we were sitting on the floor.  For this event goats are sacrificed and served to the guests, along with other traditional food items.  Two goats for a son and one for a daughter.  Some people wait to name their child until this event as well.  In this case, our friends had selected and 'named' their child a week after he was born. 

     Additional guests where invited, by hand delivered invitations, for a buffet style meal at noon.  We had eaten in the house after the ceremony and left shortly before noon.  Guests arriving for the buffet all ate outside under a large tent set up in the road.  Many events occur in this manner.  People receive an invitation, they arrive for a buffet meal, greet and congratulate the parents or newlyweds (depending on the event), and then leave.  Often people will trickle in and out for hours, not having experienced any part of the ceremony and at times never seeing the new baby. 

The Living Room

All furniture was moved out and carpets laid to accommodate guests.  Food is brought out on large trays and later cleared away by extended family member and friends that came just to help.  All helpers eat after the initial guests have. 

John and Evangeline talking afterwards.

A Bedroom

(their house is currently under construction, but still being lived in and used)

Food is prepared the two days prior. 

It is arranged on trays and serving dishes in the kitchen and extra bedroom.

A typical, modern, hammock that most babies sleep in during the day is pictured in the top right.

     The second event we attended began on Sunday and ended on Tuesday.  This more traditional event was called “Place in a Swing/Hammock,” when translated literally.  The baby of this second family was not allowed to leave the house before this event.  The first day consisted of reading from the holy book, serving food to guests, and a ceremony that involved placing the child in his swing/hammock.  The ceremony itself was led by a ‘traditional medicine’ woman and attended by the extended family. 

Prepared food on the bed in the bedroom

The 'placing in the hammock' ceremony took place in the bedroom.

Mom and Baby

The baby was placed in the hammock by the 'medicine woman,' turned around and then taken out by the mom, three times.  Then a mixture of flour, water and chicken blood was used to mark the baby and mom's faces.

     Monday and Tuesday both consisted of visiting the graves of ancestors or important Barat figures.  We were fortunate to be able to accompany the family on these trips.  Though the kids and I, Erin, only attended the trip on Tuesday, it turned out to be an incredible cultural experience.  The family, led by the grandmother and grandfather, accompanied by various aunts and uncles, took a complete meal, live chickens, bananas, and young coconuts to each grave site. 

The walk to a grave site

     After arriving at each site, food was laid out on a tray and prayers were said.  The grave stones, or site if a stone didn’t exist, were then sprinkled with water, leaves, and rubbed with perfume.  Live chickens were brought and ‘let go.’  Later we learned these sites were visited at a prior time to ask for health, safety, or something else and a promise was made that a chicken would be given in return.  So, the chickens were thrown towards the grave then recaptured.  The recapturing had to be by someone else to show you really were ‘giving’ the chicken away, though it was later taken home.  At a couple gravesites with caretakers, one chicken was given to the caretaker as a payment and thank you for his work. 

     Bananas were also roasted and a young coconut was opened at the sites.  Some family members, but not all, ate the roasted bananas and drank the coconut water.  The rest of the food was packed up and taken home to eat there as an actual meal. 

Roasting bananas at the site

Food is set out on a tray and prayers are said by the grandfather

The family

The baby is laying on his grandmother's lap with a stocking cap on.

The grandmother tying a string on the tree growing at the gravesite, this marks a request and promise made.
Later when the request is granted the string is taken off. 

The Great Aunt cleaning the site. 

The grandmother 'giving' (letting go) a chicken.

An aunt capturing the chicken.

The grandfather rubbing perfume on the tree.

Whitman walking to the second grave. 

After driving 15minutes to the first site, the family realized they had forgotten the chickens.  So John, the driver for us all, drove back with the father.  This was a blessing in disguise as it allowed him to pick up the boys from school at the same time.  Caedmon and Whitman were able to join us for both gravesite visits. 

A Walk along the beach to the second site.

     It was a very interesting outing.  We have often seen glimpses of ancestral beliefs that are still held and adhered to here, but more often than not they are hidden by a façade of current day religious adherence.  We saw and learned so much about unabashed ancestral practice, all aimed at appeasing or trying to manipulate spiritual beings.  We hope this all will aid us in more clearly communicating truth.